This town is not a conventional
tourist escape for night lovers. For one thing,
alcohol is banned in the old city. Thus, one can
put aside dreams of exotic cocktails at a fine
restaurant. Though there are several five star
hotels and economy hotels that offter good cuisine,
the best of Varanasi lies in its deep tangles
of alleyways, in its people, in its mysteries
that come out at night. At night Varanasi is transformed.
First of all, it is noticeably more silent. Echos
of voices can be heard from alleyways and a distant
honk of a car blasts. However, in the evening,
things are more sedate. As one walks through the
narrow streets, one can see through tiny windows
families kneeling to dinner, old sages smoking
pipes, tea heating on carcoals. The clinking of
plates and glasses emanate from the doors of homes.
The holiness and spirituality of the city pervades
into the night regardless. Ceremonies in this
holy city go until late in the night, as people
stream to the Ghats to chant mantras and burn
incense. Along the river side, bazaars light up
the alleys with silks and clothes, bracelets and
dyes. Women organize their goods and smile in
the flickering light. Spices can be smelled around
the corner. Stray dogs tear at abandoned garbage
in the gutters. Older men chat in huddles at the
street side, faint laughter drifting off down
into the riverbed. If one is lucky, one may even
see fire-jugglers, creating patterns of glowing
flowers in the sky. |